Women's Wool Waist (Specification PQD 341 Dated February 1943)

Women's Army Corps Waists

Women's Wool Waist

Specification PQD 341 dated February 1943

Stock No. 55-W-1230 - 55-W-1246

Allowances & Purchases

ORGANIZATION, UNITS, SPECIALISTS, & STATUSES

ZONE OF INTERIOR

THEATER OF OPERATIONS
Temperate Zone (winter clothing)	Temperate Zone (summer-winter clothing)	Tropical Zone	Arctic Zone

Women's Army Corps	Enlisted Women: Discretionary allowance, 2 wool waists.	Enlisted Women: Mandatory allowance, 2 wool waists. Officers: Mandatory purchase, 2 wool waists.	Enlisted Women: Mandatory allowance, 2 wool waists. Officers: Mandatory purchase, 2 wool waists.		Enlisted Women: Mandatory allowance, 4 wool waists. Officers: Mandatory purchase, 4 wool waists.
Nurse Physical Therapy Aides,Hospital Dietitians	Discretionary allowance, 2 wool waists.	Mandatory allowance, 2 wool waists.	Mandatory allowance, 2 wool waists.		Mandatory allowance, 2 wool waists.
Women Medical Officers		Mandatory purchase, 2 wool waists.	Mandatory purchase, 2 wool waists.	Mandatory purchase, 2 wool waists.	Mandatory purchase, 2 wool waists.
Honorable discharge & inactive duty statuses	Enlisted Women: 1 wool waist could be permanently retained if in her possession.

Key Visual ID	Primary Materials	Fasteners	Color	Labeling
Early WAC waists had horizontal pocket flaps and a convertible collar.	10 1/2 oz. shirting flannel.	There were 9 plastic buttons: 5 X front closure, 1 X 2 pocket closures, and 1 X 2 cuff closures.	Olive Drab Light Shade.	The size label was a small cloth tag sewn in at the inside back of the collar seam. The quartermaster label was sewn into the finishing edge of the right rear shirt tail.
Treatments	Approx. Contract Run	Preceded By	Replaced By	Companion Garments
N/A	March 26, 1943 to May 11, 1943.	Women's Wool Waist Spec. PQD 209C.	Women's Wool Waist Spec. PQD 450.	Women's Necktie, Spec. PQD 143C. The wool waist was generally worn with the WAC winter service uniform or field uniform in cooler climatic conditions.

Details
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Early WAC waists had horizontally cut pocket flaps. Later, in 1944 the pocket flaps became peaked. Note the relatively small size of the pockets.

A convertible collar allowed the shirt to be worn open to provide comfort while performing field duties. When opened the collar would lay flat maintaining a neat appearance.

Close-up of the Quartermaster label showing the single bust measurement as "38". In later development, shirts would have a comprehensive bust, waist, and length measurement to aid in proper fitting.

WWII era women's uniform items maintained many distinctive styling details that could be found on women's civilian clothing. Here, a close-up of the gathering folds located on the front and back of each shoulder are shown.

Notes

Like many of the women's uniform items of the WWII era, the wool waist was a heavily gendered garment. Styling was made to accentuate the female figure while utility was relatively low compared to men's shirts.

Though the shirt was a fitted design, it also had a sports collar and front. The convertible collar The wool waist is shown here being worn with the collar open and laying flat.
1945: An AAF WAC wears an early wool waist without the service coat. When worn open, the collar was designed to lay flat, keeping a neat appearance. allowed the shirt to be worn open at the neck when comfort was desired, or closed when a necktie and coat was needed. The front closure lacked a button placket so that the collar could lay flat when opened.

The garment was shaped by four large darts at the waist; two on each side of the front and back, hence the garment's name. Four gathering folds, which added distinctive styling, were located on each side of the shoulder just below the yoke seams. In keeping with long standing women's clothing traditions, the front closure buttons were located on the left side.

Pocket size was noticeably small at approximately 4 inches deep by 4 1/2 inches wide. It wasn't until later waist models that pockets were enlarged somewhat and a pencil holder was added. Pocket flaps were cut horizontal, like that of the enlisted men's, but not clipped at the corners. Looking for the horizontal pocket flaps is a good way to identify early WAC waists, as the flap became peaked after mid-1944.

Strangely, the women's wool waist was never fitted with a gas flap, whereas other women's items were, such as herringbone twill shirts.

Sleeves of early wool waists were finished with a lapped cuff. Latter versions were changed to a shirt-style cuff, which increased the shirt's serviceability. Oddly, cuff design changes made to the waist was opposite to what occurred with men's wool shirts, which started the WWII era with a shirt style sleeve cuff and ended it with a lapped cuff.

Early waists were sized by a single bust measurement. Later in 1944, fitting would be improved through the use of bust, waist, and sleeve length measurements.

Whereas men's wool shirts were mandatory issue in all climates both in the zone of interior and in theatre of operations, the women's wool waist was a mandatory allowance only in theater of operations where cool conditions prevailed and they were needed for warmth. The women's wool service uniform was generally worn utilizing a contrasting color scheme through the use of the cotton waist, or the khaki tropical worsted waist paired with the darker colored wool jacket, skirt, and cap.

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